Destination guide

Essaouira, Morocco

A walled eighteenth-century port on the Atlantic, famous for wind long before kitesurfing, with three very different beaches within twenty minutes.

About Essaouira

Essaouira has been called the windy city for centuries. The Portuguese-built ramparts, the blue fishing boats, the medina on the UNESCO list — all of it sits behind a bay that catches the Atlantic trades so reliably that windsurfers were coming here decades before kites existed.

The season runs April to September, with a steady 15 to 25 knot breeze building through the afternoons and July and August peaking around 25 knots, occasionally gusting past 35. The wind is northerly to north-easterly. Three beaches within twenty minutes of the medina cover the range: the town bay itself is shallow, soft-bottomed and side-shore, where the schools operate; Sidi Kaouki to the south is a big open beach with offshore wind, powerful breaks and real current; Moulay Bouzerktoun to the north is rocky and wave-driven, at its best on a rising tide.

The water is cold despite the heat — a wetsuit is essential, which surprises people. Off the water Essaouira is one of the more rewarding towns in Morocco: the fish grills on the port, the argan cooperatives, the gnaoua music, and Marrakech two and a half hours inland.

When to go

Best months: April, May, June, July, August, September.

Kite areas

3 distinct riding areas documented within this destination.